Taiwanese-American blogging about his travels outdoors and occasionally his thoughts on life.

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Climbing at Indian Rock in Castle Rock State Park, California, United States

On Sunday, I somehow found the will to get up from bed and meet some friends at Castle Rock State Park. Sore and tired from the day before at Mt. St. Helena, I figured I would just join my buddies for some conversation and possibly help belay.

Fat chance.

By 8am, the lot outside the official entrance was already filling up. One of the guys was running late so we needed an additional rope. I volunteered my 70m.

The hike to Indian Rock was only a mere 10-15 minute walk. The routes there range from 5.10-5.12 with an average of 5.10d. We decided to warm up on Viscious Circles YDS: 5.10c and Blowing Bubbles YDS: 5.10a.

Blowing Bubbles is appropriately rated and there is not much to say about the problem. Viscious Circles however... man, what a doozy. The crux of the problem seems to be the first and second clip. Access to the first clip is not necessarily technically difficult, but more mental as it provides a high possibility of falling. The second clip is technically difficult. Furthermore, what adds to the difficulty is the illusion of those pockets, they seem like good, deep holds, but they aren't,

For more information on routes at Indian Rock, see here: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/indian-rock/105734072

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