On Friday, I arrived at Oak Flats Campground around 8-9pm after rushing to finish as much as I could for school. The drive from Tempe, AZ to the campsite was surprisingly fast. The last time I drove to Superior, I had the impression that the drive took 2 hours. Knowing now that it only takes an hour or less, it definitely changes how I feel about climbing in Surprise.
The campsite was standard and developed fire pits were available. Ample space to set up tents. Beautiful view of the stars. For more information about the campgrounds, consult the following:
In the morning, we cleaned up what we could at our site and then began preparing for the day ahead of us.
To get to the approach, you need a vehicle capable of 4-wheel drive because of all the loose rocks on the road and how steep some of the roads get. If necessary, people can drive from the campsite closer to the crag and then leave their cars at the turnout if they plan to leave earlier. But from the turnout to the parking lot for Lower Devil's Canyon, it's still a bit of a drive, making it inconvenient for the person who will have to shuttle people back to their cars. However, the turnout is indeed a closer alternative than driving all the way back to the campsite if necessary.
On the way there, one of the trucks unfortunately suffered a blow out during an attempt up a steep hill. The tire was replaces, the truck was parked, and we all packed into the other vehicle. Given the space constraint, we got real creative with how to fit 9 people into one car.
The trail to Lower Devil's Canyon, specifically the Glitterbox Area, is straightforward. Simply follow the path leading up and towards the canyon. A sign that you're going the right way is when you pass through the barb wire fence.
To the front and right of you, should be the canyon.
As you get closer to the canyon, follow the walls and you'll begin to see some bolted routes. For us, we chose the Glitterbox area to climb and ultimately decided to set up rope on two problems: Three Amigos and Are We Smokin' The Same Stuff. For more information on these two problems, consult Mountain Project:
1) Three Amigos (5.8): https://www.mountainproject.com/v/three-amigos/105893453
2) Are We Smokin' The Same Stuff (5.9): https://www.mountainproject.com/v/are-we-smokin-the-same-stuff/105893652
All in all, great company and a fun weekend adventure.